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The purple heather still extends for
miles, with its barrows and aerial spectacles, intersected with sandy uneven
roads, just as it did then; towards the west, where broad streams run into the
bays, are marshes and meadows encircled by lofty, sandy hills, which, like a
chain of Alps, raise their pointed summits near the sea; they are only broken by
high ridges of clay, from which the sea, year by year, bites out great
mouthfuls, so that the overhanging banks fall down as if by the shock of an
earthquake.
Thus it is there today and thus it was long ago, when the
happy pair were sailing in the beautiful ship. It was a Sunday, towards the end
of September; the sun was shining, and the chiming of the church bells in the
Bay of Nissum was carried along by the breeze like a chain of sounds. The
churches there are almost entirely built of hewn blocks of stone, each like a
piece of rock. The North Sea might foam over them and they would not be
disturbed. Nearly all of them are without steeples, and the bells are hung
outside between two beams.
The North Sea might foam over them and they
would not be disturbed. Nearly all of them are without steeples, and the bells
are hung outside between two beams. The service was over, and the congregation
passed out into the churchyard, where not a tree or bush was to be seen; no
flowers were planted there, and they had not placed a single wreath upon any of
the graves. It is just the same now. Rough mounds show where the dead have been
buried, and rank grass, tossed by the wind, grows thickly over the whole
churchyard; here and there a grave has a sort of monument, a block of
half-decayed wood, rudely cut in the shape of a coffin; the blocks are brought
from the forest of West Jutland, but the forest is the sea itself, and the
inhabitants find beams, and planks, and fragments which the waves have cast upon
the beach.
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